Kisoro and Kabale, Uganda -Volcanoes to Lakes

With a sigh of relief I got my passport stamped out of Rwanda and stepped over the border into Uganda.  Uganda's past may not be any less terrifying than Rwanda's, but at least it enjoys more stability at the moment and has a much more robust tourist infrastructure.  Once across the border its not much of a scenery change but once again the steering wheel moves back to the other side, English is more widely spoken, and the people seem more cheerful and open, especially the throngs of motorcycle taxis who playfully try to get your business.

My first stop was the town of Kisoro, directly on the other side of the same volcanoes in Rwanda.  As in Musanze, Kisoro heavily markets the same not so wallet-friendly gorilla tracking safaris and volcano climbs.  Still, thanks but no thanks.  What Kisoro does have is a vibrant street culture (assuming its not dumping rain) a fun market (assuming you don't get stuck in ankle deep mud), cheap camping, and good cheap food.  I had an enjoyable day just relaxing and wandering the heavily farmed hillsides to a nearby lake.  During my only night there, I was woken in the middle of the night by a lot of commotion in the nearby street.  I peaked my head out the tent and quickly noticed the huge floodlights in the direction of the commotion. In front of the floodlights were thick swarms of insects.  The next morning as I passed the same street with the flood lights, I couldn't help but notice the giant sacks lining the street.  And in the sacks, grasshoppers!  Grasshoppers are a delicacy here and they are in season.

 A brief parting of clouds, revealing the same volcano I saw in Rwanda.  Apparently it is nearly symmetrical because it looks the same from both countries.

 I love markets, and luckily my timing was just right to attend the Kisoro Thursday market.

 

 The rain can be a nuisance at times, often forcing me to take shelter under the awning of a shop.  But once the rain passes, beautiful sights can unfold.

 

 Lake Mutanda just a few kilometers from Kisoro.

From Kisoro I made a quick hop to the next town of Kabale; maybe a quick hop but I got a full dose of the unpleasantries of travel in Uganda.  After approaching a taxi going to Kabale I realized that it was already full.  Since I was in no rush, I figured I would just wait for the next one to fill up.  But the driver took my bag, squashed it into the trunk, and opened the door indicating me to hop in. I protested explaining to him that the car was already full and that I was surely not going to fit.  Turns out, my full (arguably the sane full) is not the same as Uganda full.  I squeezed into the back seat with one other man, two women, and two babies.  The front passenger seat was occupied so surely we would depart soon.  Nope, still waiting for one more.  We left a few minutes later;  three in the front, four and two babies in the back.  But, not 10 minutes out of town and a woman is standing on the side of the road waiting for a lift.  The taxi stops with no hesitation and she squeezes into the front seat, leaving the driver hanging halfway out the window (I still don't know how he managed the pedals and shifter).  On top of it all, the winding road only added to the unpleasantness.  With feeding babies in the back I figured it was only a matter of time before nausea set in.  Sure enough, babies started vomiting, women started vomiting.  With no room to move, I was very afraid.  Luck would have it though, the woman next to me must of saw the terror in my face and was considerate enough to make a dam out of a blanket and effectively damming the flow and keeping my clothes clean.

Kabale for me was only an overnight stop before heading to the nearby Lake Bunyonyi.  I liked Kabale though for its busy streets that felt distinctly African.  I also had my first taste of a popular Ugandan street eat called the rolex.  It is a veggie omelet wrapped in a chapati (flat bread) and cooked while you wait.  They are delicious and at 40 cents a pop, perfect.  Two are enough as a meal so after an 80 cent dinner, you know I slept like a baby in Kabale.

From Kabale I took a motorcycle to Lake Bunyonyi for some rest and relaxation.  The lake is a tranquil tangle of water dotted with islands and surrounded by terraced hillsides.  My chosen accommodation was on an island about an hour from the main village by dugout canoe.  It was no doubt a relaxing retreat for a day but being marooned on a small island quickly leaves one's feet restless.  With nothing more to do than watch the many birds, be lazy, and walk the small network of trails around the island, my thoughts began to turn to the vast majority of the country that still lays to the north and my one lousy week remaining.  Too much to see, too little time.

 Venturing across Lake Bunyonyi in a dugout canoe.  I now have a new respect for the guys that paddle these things around.  They are heavy and cumbersome but the locals do it like they are paddling a whitewater kayak.

The way that the terraced hillsides drop into the lake is beautiful. I can find the beauty in the green fields but I am left to wonder what the lake would look like if it were still completely forested.

 

 Bunyonyi is a big, complicated, beautiful lake.  One look at a map of Bunyonyi and you quickly realize just how much of a tangle of bays and islands it really is.

 Dugout canoes patiently waiting for some action.

 

Kabale city center.