Just as any capital city doesn't fully represent an entire country, I figured it best to leave Kigali to get a better flavor of Rwanda. Despite the fluid security situation in the country, I headed for the border with the DR Congo where Rwanda is supposed to be at its most spectacular. Forming part of the western border sits Lake Kivu. From Kigali the minibus wound its way through the endless hills which left me wide-eyed, face pressed against the window. Rwanda is one of Africa's most densely populated countries which has left many of the hillsides severely deforested. But in return, the hills are a brilliant green patchwork of terraced fields, banana plantations and picturesque villages. It may be a stretch to say, but deforestation has never looked so lovely. (I should add that its not all entirely deforested; there are beautifully forested hillsides as well.)
As the bus dropped into Lake Kivu, it was no less spectacular. Dotted with islands and a tangle of winding bays with the lush hillsides plunging into the water, Lake Kivu is a gem stuck in a hard place. It is too bad that it lays where it does; Lake Kivu would be a fascinating place to get lost for awhile.
The lake village of Kibuye was of course much more quiet than Kigali but maintained that same orderly feel, especially when the armed soldiers took to the streets as the sun began to set. With not much to do besides stroll the winding lakeshore roads, visit the market, and sample Rwandan food (buffet style!), one day in Kibuye and I was ready to move on.
This is only one of Lake Kivu's long winding bays. With a boat, more time,and maybe an armed guard, Lake Kivu would be a wonderful place to explore. It is no doubt beautiful.
Lake Kivu had some of the strangest fishing boats (I am assuming fishing boats) that I have ever seen. The contraptions were 2 or 3 canoes connected laterally with poles and then long poles protruding off the front and back of each canoe. Unfortunately I never got see one in action.
Pleasant, green, and hilly Kibuye. It's an ideal place...except for those bad neighbors.
Lake taxis to places unknown and boat building yard.
With plans in place to move up to the end of the lake where it meets the volcanoes at the town of Gisenyi, I quickly learned how precarious the situation is in this region. With fresh news that the M23 rebels had pulled out of Gisenyi's sister town of Goma (good news for me) came news that Hutu militias has attacked villages on the Rwandan side of the border near Gisenyi (apparently Rwanda's past is not entirely behind them). I had thought that I had received a window of opportunity to visit spectacular Gisenyi but that window quickly closed. Taking the advice of others (others who are way more in the know than me) I reluctantly diverted around Gisenyi. My disappointment was quickly laid to rest though when I woke up the following morning to reports that a Congolese militia clashed with the army in Gisenyi. Bad news, but at least it makes me feel better about my decision. Crisis has become the enemy of my travels!
In place of Gisenyi, I headed to the town of .Musanze that sits at the base of several volcanoes and is the gateway to gorilla country. For the few brief moments that the clouds parted, I got a glimpse of the impressive volcanoes. But, that's about it. With a wallet reluctant to open for the US$500 gorilla permit or US$150 to climb through the fog and mud to the top of a volcano, there was not much for a dirtbag to do in Musanze. On to new territory I guess. I am glad to have made the turn into Rwanda despite the tense situation. It is a stunningly beautiful country and if it could completely put the past behind it and its neighbor clean up its act, Rwanda could be one heck of a place to travel. It will always be on my mind. Sadly, it seems like hard times for Rwanda are far from over. Its come a long ways but it still has a lot going against it. But, that's only my narrow assessment. Let's hope that I am wrong.
Musanze in the early morning. I was honestly not too comfortable wielding my camera in Rwanda so I would wake early and capture what I wanted before the streets became too busy.
One of the volcanoes outside of Musanze. Silly me, I usually know the names of mountains, but with no map or guide book, I have absolutely no idea what these volcanoes are named.
The bus stand in Musanze; busy, muddy, but hassle-free.
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