Monday, December 17, 2012

El-Jadida and Oulidia - The Atlantic with Mint

Seeing how Casablanca is on the coast, naturally I had to follow the coast south, despite the beckoning snowy Atlas Mountains.  A quick train ride brought me to the bustling town of El-Jadida.  El-Jadida couldn't have been a better place for me to get my Moroccan feet under me.  Despite its old fortified Portuguese quarter, El-Jadida is a bit off the major tourist circuit. Perhaps because of this, El-Jadida has been spared of the tourist related hassles that I have been repeatedly warned about.  This gave me the opportunity to wander carefree through the medina streets and be introduced to Moroccan cuisine and the inevitable mint tea.  In Morocco, the medina is the old part of the city with ancient buildings, narrow streets, and open markets; the medina is the heart of the city.  I was awestruck as I wandered the quiet maze of streets in the El-Jadida medina.  Everything was exotic with new experiences for all of the senses.  What struck me the most was how old and fragile the medina felt, yet life continued on amongst the old setting probably as it had for hundreds of years.  

Also in El-Jadida, I was familiarized to the infamous Moroccan mint tea.  Mint tea is a staple of sorts and is drunk throughout the day; anytime is a good time for mint tea.  Often served in a chromed teapot packed with fresh mint leaves, one just doesn't simply pour and drink.  To ensure that the tea is at its finest, one must pour from a lofty height into the small glass.  Then, pour it back into the teapot.  Repeat until the correct fullness is achieved.  And what is the correct fullness you might ask?  Beats me.  I guess until your wrist gets tired.  Being the impatient lad that I am, my first cups of mint tea were simply poured and slurped down; quite frankly, all the pouring seemed a bit too ritualistic with likely too subtle of results worth the trouble.  But I learned and adapted.  The multiple pourings do indeed improve the flavor and delightfulness of the tea.  Now, I am a 3-pourer; as my taste becomes more acquired I may become a 5 or 6-pourer.  Patience is indeed a virtue when it comes to mint tea.

After a day exploring the medina and old Portuguese quarter, I had had my fill of El-Jadida.  I am not looking for anything in particular while in Morocco, but El-Jadida is not what I am looking for.  Its a pleasant place but I know that it is not Morocco at its most spectacular.  With this on my mind, it is going to be difficult for me to slow down in any particular place.  El-Jadida is too big.

The views were no doubt awesome from the walls of the old fortified Portuguese city.  Even the old canons remained and I couldn't help but put myself back in time and imagine trying to hurl a lead ball at a big sailing vessel; what interesting times those must have been.

The narrow streets of the medina were fun to get lost in.  Most of the time I was lost, often about-facing liking an imbecile and retracing my steps until I could find my way out.

The main road leading into the medina was full of activity with all sorts of goodies on display for sale; dates, olives, bread, meat, tea, clothes, on and on.

This time hopping a bus, I followed the coast further south, face pressed against the dirty glass, to the town of Oulidia.   The route along the coast was spectacular with green fields rolling down to the rocky shoreline accentuated by crashing waves.  Although I would have preferred to be on foot, it was a dramatic drive.  But, the arrival into Oulidia was not as dramatic.  Oulidia is a small village nestled against a beautiful beach and lagoon, but it is a town that has fallen victim to resortization.  With nothing old to gaze at except a few crumbling walls and rusty canons, I spent my night in Oulidia and bid it farewell early the next morning.  Oulidia is too resorty.

The quiet lagoon below Oulidia.  It probably would have been worth a swim if the water and air weren't so darn cold.

The only remains that I could find of something old in Oulidia.  Morocco has a rich history and anything that is old, is fascinating to be around; concrete resorts are much less fascinating to me.

Although resorty, Oulidia is lovely.  It's not resorty for nothing right?

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