Thursday, December 13, 2012

Kampala and Entebbe - End of the Road

As it turns out, it is inevitable that travel in African countries will lead you to the capital city (with the exception of Tanzania).  And that's a good thing.  The contrast between urban Africa and rural Africa is so sharp, and without that slap in the face chaos of African cities, Africa would have a little less charm.  Uganda's capital city, Kampala, is certainly a slap in the face.  It is congested, sprawling, dirty and downright crazy.  I like it!

Though my time was brief in Kampala, I had a fun time diving headfirst into the crazy city center, exploring markets, and recklessly winding through traffic on the back of a motorcycle.  But the highlight of my brief time in the city was a visit to the Mandela National Stadium.  Upon arriving in Kampala, I received news from other travellers that a big match was to take place that evening; a match that I couldn't pass up.  Soccer is Africa's past time; it's as much of a staple as maize meal and beans.  There is no better way to finish a trip in Africa than by sharing a soccer match with Africans.  With a trophy and money on the line, Uganda and Kenya squared off on the pitch.  This was my first professional soccer match and I don't know if it was because it was in Africa or if that is just how soccer matches are, but it was a blast to attend.  It was cool to be in the stadium with thousands of Ugandans enthusiastically supporting their country and team.  They were into it.  Uganda won!

Uganda's biggest fan. Right, I didn't even know the name of the team before showing up at the stadium.  It's the Uganda Cranes.  (And yes, I am wearing pink flip-flops; they are color-coded by size and sadly my size is pink)

Although the stadium was not filled to capacity, it sure sounded like it.  Uganda's two goals that led them to victory were followed by a deafening roar from the highly supportive crowd.

A hazy Kampala skyline.  With its congested traffic it's no wonder that the air is a bit thick.

It's befuddling as to how traffic worked in Kampala.  It worked as well as dropping a handful of marbles into a funnel - one or two might get through but eventually it will clog.

From Kampala I made the quick hop to the town of Entebbe on the northern shores of Lake Victoria.  The sound of jumbo jets coming and going was a persistent reminder of my impending fate.  For the first time, it was a reminder that I did not want to hear.  I have always looked forward to and enjoyed traveling by air; it has always meant that I am either coming home or departing somewhere exotic.  Even though the latter is the truth in this case, I couldn't help but feel a bit melancholy that I was about to board a plane and leave the Africa that I know.  It's been over two years on the continent and Africa has become like home, regardless of the country.  It has taken care of me, nurtured me, strengthened me, and changed me.  It literally has been blood, sweat and tears.  Despite all her downfalls, I am in love with Africa.  Before leaving Namibia I knew that I was in love with Namibia, but could I really say that I was in love with Africa?  That's what I wanted to find out.  I have found out after two humble months on the road and five countries that those feelings for Namibia hold true for the continent as a whole.  It's Africa that I love.  I do not dare try to explain why here; you can maybe see the reasons in all my past posts.  And that is only a maybe because behind all the words and photos, I have probably only managed to capture 1% of what Africa is really about.  There is so much more to Africa than what I have been able to share.  I have tried my best, but I am neither a professional writer or photographer.  There are plenty of books out there that have captured the magic of Africa much better than I have.  Or, should I say, better than I have written. I have certainly captured the magic of Africa for myself; its in my head.  I have seen it and felt it.  I honestly do not have the ability to adequately articulate what I have seen and I am not comfortable enough behind the camera to capture all the magic.  I wish I could.  But, it's there for me.  I have waved at dirty smiling children from the passing bus; been mesmerized by the resolve of the African woman as she balances bananas on her head, baby strapped to her back; observed the tenacity of fisherman laying nets for their and their families' survival; fallen asleep to the sounds of drumbeats, singing and dancing; eaten from the same plate as a people far removed from the world as I know it; been intoxicated by the sights, smells, and sounds of vibrant African markets; shared in the suffering of the African people; and best of all, exchanged smiles and handshakes.  These things are difficult to put on paper; maybe even the emotions they evoke transcend language.  And that is just fine.  Not everything needs to be explained.  As long as it can be absorbed; that's enough.  I have absorbed Africa and now I will always be dreaming of her.  So long for now Africa, I hope we can meet again.

3 comments:

Mom said...

She'll always be there for you, Next time I get to go again

Grant Copenhaver said...

That is true! You are more than welcome to come along.

Grant Helgeson said...

Beautiful writing GC. It may only by 1%, but I have thoroughly enjoyed following your journey through this blog. I'm *very* grateful for the vicarious Africa journey. Safe travels brother.