Cape Maclear, Malawi - Clear Waters, Colorful Fish, Positive Vibes

Malawi may be one of Africa's poorest countries and one of its most densely populated, but with its stunning scenery, famous lake, and friendly people, it may be one of Africa's most fun.  Since first visiting Malawi over a year ago, I have been longing to return to soak in its blue waters and eat delicious cheap food.  Malawi is a thin sliver of a country wedged between Zambia, Mozambique, and Tanzania.  The centerpiece of the country is no doubt its massive lake, Lake Malawi, the third largest in Africa.  

My first stop in Malawi was the legendary Cape Maclear.  Cape Maclear is an idyllic place with long sandy beaches dotted with backpacker hangouts with a quiet village just behind - for me, very reminiscent of Goa, India. Its the type of place that is perfect to relax and unwind, which is exactly what I did for two days.

The highlight of my two days was kayaking and snorkelling (with the exception of eating big delicious fish, of course).  With a rented kayak and snorkelling gear I paddled out to a nearby island to enjoy the underwater and above-water delights.  For a freshwater lake, Lake Malawi has an amazing assortment of fish.  In fact, it holds one third of the world's freshwater species.  I was utterly amazed by the fish that I found - from fish with electric blue stripes, to fish vibrantly colored yellow, green, pearl, and even flat black - an incredible array of colors probably more typical of tropical salt water fish than freshwater.  Above water, the skies were busy with fish eagles and kingfishers darting into the water preying on the aquatic abundance.

Even though Cape Maclear is nearly the perfect chill-out place, it still comes with its annoyances.  It's places like this in poverty-stricken countries where desperation can rear its ugly head.  Unfortunately in these situations tourism can bring out the worst in people.  There is rarely moment when you can just sit and be with your own thoughts without someone coming along trying to sell you something, asking for money, trying to make you feel guilty, or trying to cheat you in some way.  Your guard always has to be up and deciphering the genuine conversationalist from those that are looking for more becomes quite tedious.  It is an unfortunate result of tourism, but that is the nature of the beast anywhere in the world.  There is a staggering difference between the monetary wealth of the visitor and the people of the country you are visiting.  Malawi is known to have legendarily friendly people.  They are here; I have met some and I am looking forward to meeting more as I move north up the lake.

 I don't know if it gets much better - clear, calm water, nice sand, and a laid back atmosphere that will quickly make you forget that you are in Africa.

Add a lake to Africa's already stunning sunsets and you get shear magic.

Shopping in Cape Maclear was a blast.  Everything can be bought fresh and in single servings (those are single serving bags of cooking oil).

 And of course there are kids... Beach party!

South Luangwa - Elephants in the Night

South Luangwa National Park, despite being relatively unknown, is by many sources one of the best on the continent.  Even though I have seen plenty of African wildlife, I couldn’t bring myself to leave Zambia without visiting the park.  With beautiful riverside camping and game viewing right from my tent, Luangwa was a wonderful place to spend a couple of days.  It was a bit of a splurge for me with a guided game drive and with the 100+ temperatures, the cold Mosi Lagers at the bar were too much to resist.  The game drive was wildlife packed with lots of elephants, impalas, crocs, hippos, pukus, giraffes, and lions.  But the real adventures came in the night.  With no fences surrounding the park or the campsite, I was warned to be on the lookout for wildlife in camp; I took this advice too lightly.

The first night I was walking through the dimly lit camp and came around a tree to find myself not 5 yards from a female elephant and her calf.  I promptly started backing up slowly until I found myself up against a bush.  With her ears out and trunk raised, she continued straight for me.  I jumped behind the bush and into another’s camp.  I warned them that an elephant was coming and the next moment we were all backed against their truck as the elephant proceeded to rip their camp apart in search of food.  For the next 5 minutes we were helpless as she nonchalantly threw and crushed open bins finding only spices to eat, eventually moving off into the dark.  I am not going to lie, I was shaken.  Sure, I have had some close encounters with deer, mountain goats, squirrels, and the like, but coming face to face to with an elephant was downright scary.  

The next night was no less exciting.  At midnight I was awoken by rustling outside my tent.  I peaked my head out to find 5 elephants ransacking the camp.  Their demeanor was just as nonchalant and hostile and for me, sitting defenseless in my little tent which is no match for an elephant, I was faced with the decision to flee or sit it out with the hope that they wouldn’t wander my way.  It would only take one whack with a trunk to crush my tent and only one stomp to crush me – I fled.  I quietly unzipped the opposite door, made sure the coast was clear enough, and ran to the shelter of the toilet.  I was safe but I anxiously watched on praying for the safety of my beloved tent.  The elephants eventually moved on, sparing my tent, instead choosing to harass the bar area. As I stepped out of the toilet I caught out the corner of my eye movement coming my direction; a massive hippo was lumbering my way.  Back into the toilet.  Once the hippo passed I fled for the bar area where the night watchman was holed up.  He laughs as he sees me coming and asks, “You got scared?”  “Sure did” says I.  His reply, “Better to be alive.”  Eventually everything quieted (only after the elephants dented another camper's truck and put a tusk through their tent), and I made it back to my tent for a few more fitful hours of sleep before the morning baboon and monkey raid.  

These experiences were very near the edge of my comfort zone.  In fact, I am still trying to decide whether or not it was enjoyable.  Regardless, it was one heck of an experience that I will never forget.

Croc Valley Camp was a relaxing place right along the river with lots of shade.  Relaxing by day, scary by night.

The typical African safari rig.  Great for viewing, but once parked next to a pride of lions you begin to feel very vulnerable.

This young bull came through camp my last evening at Luangwa.  He was a trouble maker and very aggressive.  He took what he wanted and if anyone tried to stop him his ears would go out and he would mock charge. He ransacked a couple of camps, clearing tables and busting open cooler boxes.

The small Luangwa River certainly has no shortage of hippos. In fact, one of the highest (if not the highest) concentration in the world.  Hippos were also a nightly occurrence at the camp; less of a nuisance than the elephants though.

On the game drive we came across a pride of 5 lions that had killed a buffalo the day before.  Under the shade of a tree and with full bellies, the lions were not too entertaining.  I suppose it could have been more entertaining if they had empty stomachs...

Lots of giraffes as well.  South Luangwa is home to this species (who's name I can't recall) that is found only in South Luangwa.

The fading evening light on the Luangwa River.  As the sun sets, the anxiety of the looming nighttime chaos begins to rise...

Chipata, Zambia - Groundnut Powder and Pumpkin Leaves

In the eastern reaches of Zambia, on the border with Malawi lies the bustling town of Chipata. Chipata is beautifully set amongst low mountains with shops and homes creeping up the lower slopes.   For me, Chipata was to be nothing more than a jumping off point for reaching South Luangwa National Park and Malawi.  However, after 12 hours on a bus from Lusaka, I decided to take a rest day in the town.  

As is becoming my usual lazy-day routine, I spent a morning relaxing and catching up on laundry while the afternoon was spent wandering streets and exploring markets.  As a border town, Chipata has a unique atmosphere that makes it particularly enjoyable to explore.  The streets are a hubbub of activity and vibrancy with everything from second hand cell phones to toothpaste to “fresh” meat being sold in the open.  The majority of things being sold I don’t even know what they are, but from that emerges a wonderful opportunity to learn. Taking a minute to stop at a market stall and point at things asking what they are often results in interesting answers.  After asking a friendly woman what a certain powder was she replied that it was groundnut (peanut) powder.  Naturally I asked how it is used.  From there I received a Zambian cooking lesson and 5 minutes later left with an arm full of ingredients to cook my own Zambian meal.  With nothing more than some onions, tomatoes, groundnut powder, pumpkin leaves and some rice I returned to camp and cooked a meal that was almost as enjoyable as the experience getting the ingredients.

 Chipata is quite a large town but feels very much like a village in parts. 

Groundnut powder; I didn't even know such a thing existed.  It is now my favorite thing to cook with.  Adding a generous amount to some sauteed vegetables and curry creates a very nice, subtly peanutty sauce.

The minibus from Chipata to nearby South Luangwa National Park was unbelievably overcrowded with luggage and sacks tied hanging out the back and eventually the roof being stacked high.  It made it though despite the rough road. 

Sleeping on Buses, Wandering Streets

With Namibia now in my wake I find myself sauntering through Zambia.  I have welcomed the change of scenery, environment, and culture.  Although Zambia borders Namibia in the northeast, it is an entirely different country with a very different feel.  To me, it is much more Africa, with its busy street culture and chaotic public transport.  I have opted to travel at night  because as I look at it, traveling at night "kills two birds with one stone" - I get to where I am going and I don't have to pay for accommodation.  It would be a huge exaggeration to say that I get a good night's rest on the bus, but adrenaline nevertheless keeps me functioning.  In a strange way it is actually quite enjoyable; arriving at a chaotic bus station in a dream-like state, plopping  myself upon a dirty stool, drinking milky sweet tea and people watching until the sun comes up. 

However, after two consecutive night buses, a bed becomes very much desired.  After a day in Livingstone, I made the journey to Zambia's capital city, Lusaka.  I had no intent of spending any time in Lusaka but a spontaneous change of plans left me with a day to spend wandering the city.  Lusaka was worth the diversion.  There is nothing extraordinary about the city, but it does have a very "African" feel in an urban kind of way.  I had an enjoyable day relaxing at the hostel and wandering the streets in search of something interesting.  What I found was that it has the same hassles as any other big city but Zambians are warm and friendly people.  One day is enough though.  Lusaka has certainly got me giddy to see more of Zambia.

Near downtown Lusaka, Zambia

The busy and chaotic Lusaka Inter-City Bus Station with colorful buses, hawkers, food vendors, and aggressive bus representitives (for lack of a better word) that push and pull you to their particular bus.

I always enjoy exploring markets.  I found myself here in the hardware market with this chap who was more than happy to pose with his fine wire.

Amongst the nuts, bolts and hammers was a meat vendor - don't mind if I do.

The backstreets of Lusaka are lined with these beautiful flowering trees (jacaranda?).  I am not sure if I liked this tree for what it was or if beacause it was in front of the embassy of the Democratic Republic of Congo....

150 kms Upstream

As a final farewell to the country that I have come to call home, I decided it fitting to repeat a long walk through a region that has become my favorite – the Kunene River. Since making the trek late last year it has been hard for me to take my mind off the rugged desert landscapes, the beautiful river scenery, the wildness, and the people who call it home, the Himba. This time I decided to do it in reverse, from Epupa Falls to Ruacana Falls. Now it is the height of the dry season so the river is not surprisingly much lower. This meant that the falls were not at their most spectacular; in fact Ruacana was not running at all. However, this did not mean that the river was any less beautiful. The contrast between the barren landscapes and the life-giving Kunene was much more pronounced. The low water also provided places to safely soak oneself without fear of being swept away in the current or chomped by a crocodile; something my parched body certainly appreciated. Also as a result of the dry times, I was given the opportunity to experience the nomadic nature of the Himba people. As the only considerable source or reliable water for probably 100’s of miles, the Himba seemed much more keen on setting up shop near the river. I often found myself uncomfortably walking into informal Himba camps without realizing it until it was too late. Even though I was told that many of the Himba had crossed into Angola in search of better grazing grounds, I still found the river banks crowded relative to how I know it. This also meant that I got to experience their warmth and hospitality. On two occasions I was invited to come and share their food with them. Probably more about good timing, but I couldn’t help but feel that they felt obligated to feed me, as if I was a nomad like them and it’s their duty to take care of those that follow the same dusty path. Regardless of the reason, I was no doubt thrilled to be sitting around the fire eating from the same basket with a people I have come to admire.

As a whole, the walk was just as interesting and rewarding as the last time. I think the nature of the place is such that it will always be interesting and rewarding. The only other new experiences was spotting camels (how the Himba acquired camels baffles me) and nearly getting peed on by a cheeky monkey (it would have been more of an experience for both of us if he had actually hit his target). This place has so much to offer and I doubt there could ever be a dull moment.

One evening I was sitting on the edge of the river in the fading light and thinking that I could easily be sitting on any other river. The sound of the flowing water, the chirp of the insects, the light breeze, and the smell of the river are not that much different than any other river. But then there is a rustle in the bushes behind me and I turn to find a half-naked red woman, hair caked with mud and hand raised in greeting. That’s when it becomes very obvious that there is no place else like this on earth. The Kunene is no doubt a special place.

 

Epupa falls not at its mightiest but nonetheless still stunning.

With my tent as home and backpack as friend, camping along the wild Kunene is something I will never forget.

Some rascals that followed me along the trail for some way; not bad travel companions (they didn't even ask me for sweets).

Palm fringed with warm water; being along the Kunene is not that much different than being on a tropical beach somewhere...if it weren't for those darn crocs.



Learning to Say Goodbye

The end of my Peace Corps service has come to a close.  To me, it is a bittersweet time.  After two years in Enguwantale with the ups and downs, the likes and the dislikes, and frustrations and joys, it is difficult to say goodbye.  Enguwantle has been my most consistent home since I first started traveling.  Nowhere else in the last 5 years have I lived in one place for more than 2 years.  And saying goodbye to the people that have become my family and friends over the last two years is not like saying goodbye to family and friends at home.  When I leave home there is a comfortable degree of certainty that I will be seeing my family and friends again.  It's still not always easy to say goodbye, but there is at least comfort in knowing that I will be back.  But saying goodbye here, it's a whole 'nother animal.  The goodbyes come with much less certainty that I will be seeing any of them again, especially my students.  I have no idea what life has in store for me so it is hard to say that I will ever be able to make it back, let alone find those that are dear to me now.  There is no doubt that the people and culture of Enguwantale have moved me.  It is downright hard to say goodbye. 

But, it had to be done and I managed.  I made the most of my last few weeks in the village.  I made sure that I was able to spend some quality time with my students, my host family, and others in the community that have been there for me.  Despite the shed tears, I am leaving Enguwantale happy that I was at least able to have a positive impact on some and satisfied that I worked to the best of my ability and remained dedicated to the community despite the hardships.  I have learned new skills, made new friends, immersed myself in another culture, and have acquired a different view on life and the world.  What more could I ask for?

With that, the next leg of this journey is about to begin.  Africa has stolen my heart and it is now time for me to dive into it.  The allure of Africa is much more enticing than the allure of America right now.  I am looking forward to the next three months not as a vacation, but as a time for reflection and learning.  I don't know what Africa has in store for me, but it really doesn't matter; it will be one hell of a wander.

(I intend to post some photos later; my things are spread across the country right now so when I am reunited with my thumb drive you can expect some photos.)