Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Lushoto - Run to the Hills

After being in any city, it's best to run to the hills.  The next leg of my journey brought me to the Usambara mountains and the town of Lushoto, a few hundred kilometers north of Dar.  As the bus winded its way up the mountains, I knew I was in for something good.  It was a white-knuckle ride up a single-lane road with a shear drop on one side.  The views were fantastic over the lush and rugged terrain, of course with the exception of peering over the precipice as the bus swerved too near the edge to avoid oncoming traffic.  All you can do is sit back, put your faith in the driver, and hope that the woman sitting across from you is able to vomit out the window before on you.  Success.

Lushoto, sitting at around 4,000 feet, was the perfect respite from the heat and humidity of the coast.  The town itself is nothing to write home about, but it is the surrounding small villages and hilly terrain connected with footpaths that makes Lushoto so great.  After reminding my legs what "terrain" is, I had an enjoyable two days wandering the paths and trying to reach unscalable crags (why did I leave my ropes at home!).  I even hired a guide for a half day to see if he could pick our way up to a rocky viewpoint.  But even with our powers combined, we were unsuccessful.  At least the locals got a hoot out of watching us try.  Regardless, it was an enjoyable time.  Walking in the hills is always an enjoyable time, in fact, I had almost forgot how great it really is.  Walking through pine, cedar, and eucalyptus forests, with misty mornings, sunny and breezy afternoons, all the while mingling with friendly locals, was euphoric.  And what's best, the mountains only get bigger from here.

"The best people, like the best wines, come from the hills."  - Ed Abbey


My guide Nia posing with some of the rascals along the path to our failed summit attempt. Who needs to get to the top when you got kids like this around!

The mist-shrouded Usambara mountains from the plains below.

The quiet end of Lushoto.

Being in the Usambara moutains is like being on a plateau; once in the mountains the terrain is mild but near the edge, they make a dramatic drop to the plains below.

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