Kilwa Masoko - The Birthplace of Swahili

Following an obvious route straight up the coast, my next stop came at the quiet village of Kilwa Masoko.  Since entering Tanzania I have felt that I was off the beaten path, due to the total lack of other travelers and tourist infrastructure.  However, that changed once I hit Kilwa Masoko. With World Heritage ancient ruins set on a nearby island and a rich ancient history, Kilwa was much more busy with "muzungus" (white people).  Here, the kids greet with a "bye-bye" and run up to ask, "what is my name?"  Far from perfect English, but better than what I have had to deal with. My naughty side sometimes liked to throw the youngsters a curve; "I don't know your name! Why don't you tell me." The only response I ever got was a blank stare.

The village of Kilwa Masoko is another quiet coastal village that sits on another beautiful beach.  The beach here may be even more attractive than what I found further south, with water that seems more turquoise and baobabs scattered in with the palms.

Kilwa Masoko would be nothing more that a beautiful stretch of beach and a sleepy fishing village if it weren't for the nearby island ruins of Kilwa Kisiwani.  It is said that it is from here that Swahili culture was born.  The ruins date to as far back as the 9th century.  The Arabs established the site to expand their trading network on the Indian Ocean.  Kilwa Kisiwani eventually became the most important trading center along the East African coast, primarily exporting gold and slaves.  The site changed hands over the centuries, ultimately being left to ruin but not before creating Swahili culture taking influences from Arab, Portuguese, and of course Bantu cultures.
 

The tightly packed and colorful market at Kilwa Masoko.  I have never loved my little campstove more; it has meant that I go from being a market observer to a market patron, the latter being much more enjoyable.

Getting to the ruins on Kilwa Kisiwani meant sailing in a local dhow; no doubt simple sailing vessels, but beautiful old boats.

 

The fort at Kilwa Kisiwani, perched at the edge of the island, strategically overlooking the ocean. 

Inside the Grand Mosque at Kilwa Kisiwani.  It had certainly seen grander days, but after centuries along the Indian Ocean coast, I don't blame it for looking a little run down.


About 1,500 people call the island home, living around the ruins and even using ancient wells to get their water.

Clear turquoise waters and white sands...wait, did I already caption something like that on another photo? 

As I continue up the coast the beaches seem to be becoming more attractive and the culture richer.  But beyond Kilwa Masoko, there is Dar...