From Kilwa Masoko I boarded a bus with my boots quadrupled in value (cash safely stashed in the soles) and blade easily accessible (for peeling mangoes, of course) for Tanzania's bustling economic capital of Dar es Salaam. Even though Dar doesn't have as bad as a reputation as other African mega-cities, it still does not come without its risks. With recent warnings and words of advise from the US Embassy and other travelers fresh on my mind, I made the trip to Dar prepared for battle and with the intention to leave with everything I came with.
Even though Dar was unavoidable for me, given the opportunity, I wouldn't have missed it. I have come to enjoy such big cities for their energy, chaos, and vibrancy. As the bus neared the city, my excitement and anxiety began to mount. The sky becomes a little less blue, haze clouds the horizon, and gradually the bush gives way to development and slums. And then, its crazy.
With a game plan following the advise given in the Embassy email (do not let anyone hail you a taxi and do not get into a car that is not clearly marked as a taxi) I disembarked the bus in a very disorienting environment. My game plan quickly went out the window. With no taxis in sight, I depended on someone else to hail me a ride to the city center and I got into what appeared to be a normal car. It worked out though and I safely arrived to a hotel unscathed.
Dar is not too much unlike any other big developing-country cities that I have visited; traffic is congested, air is thick, streets are dirty, and the smell of sewage and burning garbage perfumes the air. That is only one part of the package though. There is a pounding pulse to life in the city and there is a special rhythm that is fun to get in step with. There is a lot to feast the eyes on and it is easy to kill an entire day winding through the streets. On top of that, street food and tea is in abundance, particularly of the Indian and Middle Eastern varieties. In the end, Dar was well worth the visit and a nice contrast to the slower pace outside of the city limits. Could I ever live in such a place? Not a chance.
No doubt about it, Dar es Salaam is a big city.
The bay at Dar es Salaam. Although not good for swimming, good for watching massive cargo ships and ferries come and go.
In the thick of it. These men with handcarts have the uncanny ability to walk in front of me when I am taking street scape photos.
Yeah, and there are markets too.
With a game plan following the advise given in the Embassy email (do not let anyone hail you a taxi and do not get into a car that is not clearly marked as a taxi) I disembarked the bus in a very disorienting environment. My game plan quickly went out the window. With no taxis in sight, I depended on someone else to hail me a ride to the city center and I got into what appeared to be a normal car. It worked out though and I safely arrived to a hotel unscathed.
Dar is not too much unlike any other big developing-country cities that I have visited; traffic is congested, air is thick, streets are dirty, and the smell of sewage and burning garbage perfumes the air. That is only one part of the package though. There is a pounding pulse to life in the city and there is a special rhythm that is fun to get in step with. There is a lot to feast the eyes on and it is easy to kill an entire day winding through the streets. On top of that, street food and tea is in abundance, particularly of the Indian and Middle Eastern varieties. In the end, Dar was well worth the visit and a nice contrast to the slower pace outside of the city limits. Could I ever live in such a place? Not a chance.
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