Sunday, October 28, 2012

Cape Maclear, Malawi - Clear Waters, Colorful Fish, Positive Vibes

Malawi may be one of Africa's poorest countries and one of its most densely populated, but with its stunning scenery, famous lake, and friendly people, it may be one of Africa's most fun.  Since first visiting Malawi over a year ago, I have been longing to return to soak in its blue waters and eat delicious cheap food.  Malawi is a thin sliver of a country wedged between Zambia, Mozambique, and Tanzania.  The centerpiece of the country is no doubt its massive lake, Lake Malawi, the third largest in Africa.  

My first stop in Malawi was the legendary Cape Maclear.  Cape Maclear is an idyllic place with long sandy beaches dotted with backpacker hangouts with a quiet village just behind - for me, very reminiscent of Goa, India. Its the type of place that is perfect to relax and unwind, which is exactly what I did for two days.

The highlight of my two days was kayaking and snorkelling (with the exception of eating big delicious fish, of course).  With a rented kayak and snorkelling gear I paddled out to a nearby island to enjoy the underwater and above-water delights.  For a freshwater lake, Lake Malawi has an amazing assortment of fish.  In fact, it holds one third of the world's freshwater species.  I was utterly amazed by the fish that I found - from fish with electric blue stripes, to fish vibrantly colored yellow, green, pearl, and even flat black - an incredible array of colors probably more typical of tropical salt water fish than freshwater.  Above water, the skies were busy with fish eagles and kingfishers darting into the water preying on the aquatic abundance.

Even though Cape Maclear is nearly the perfect chill-out place, it still comes with its annoyances.  It's places like this in poverty-stricken countries where desperation can rear its ugly head.  Unfortunately in these situations tourism can bring out the worst in people.  There is rarely moment when you can just sit and be with your own thoughts without someone coming along trying to sell you something, asking for money, trying to make you feel guilty, or trying to cheat you in some way.  Your guard always has to be up and deciphering the genuine conversationalist from those that are looking for more becomes quite tedious.  It is an unfortunate result of tourism, but that is the nature of the beast anywhere in the world.  There is a staggering difference between the monetary wealth of the visitor and the people of the country you are visiting.  Malawi is known to have legendarily friendly people.  They are here; I have met some and I am looking forward to meeting more as I move north up the lake.

 I don't know if it gets much better - clear, calm water, nice sand, and a laid back atmosphere that will quickly make you forget that you are in Africa.

Add a lake to Africa's already stunning sunsets and you get shear magic.

Shopping in Cape Maclear was a blast.  Everything can be bought fresh and in single servings (those are single serving bags of cooking oil).

 And of course there are kids... Beach party!

No comments: