South Luangwa - Elephants in the Night

South Luangwa National Park, despite being relatively unknown, is by many sources one of the best on the continent.  Even though I have seen plenty of African wildlife, I couldn’t bring myself to leave Zambia without visiting the park.  With beautiful riverside camping and game viewing right from my tent, Luangwa was a wonderful place to spend a couple of days.  It was a bit of a splurge for me with a guided game drive and with the 100+ temperatures, the cold Mosi Lagers at the bar were too much to resist.  The game drive was wildlife packed with lots of elephants, impalas, crocs, hippos, pukus, giraffes, and lions.  But the real adventures came in the night.  With no fences surrounding the park or the campsite, I was warned to be on the lookout for wildlife in camp; I took this advice too lightly.

The first night I was walking through the dimly lit camp and came around a tree to find myself not 5 yards from a female elephant and her calf.  I promptly started backing up slowly until I found myself up against a bush.  With her ears out and trunk raised, she continued straight for me.  I jumped behind the bush and into another’s camp.  I warned them that an elephant was coming and the next moment we were all backed against their truck as the elephant proceeded to rip their camp apart in search of food.  For the next 5 minutes we were helpless as she nonchalantly threw and crushed open bins finding only spices to eat, eventually moving off into the dark.  I am not going to lie, I was shaken.  Sure, I have had some close encounters with deer, mountain goats, squirrels, and the like, but coming face to face to with an elephant was downright scary.  

The next night was no less exciting.  At midnight I was awoken by rustling outside my tent.  I peaked my head out to find 5 elephants ransacking the camp.  Their demeanor was just as nonchalant and hostile and for me, sitting defenseless in my little tent which is no match for an elephant, I was faced with the decision to flee or sit it out with the hope that they wouldn’t wander my way.  It would only take one whack with a trunk to crush my tent and only one stomp to crush me – I fled.  I quietly unzipped the opposite door, made sure the coast was clear enough, and ran to the shelter of the toilet.  I was safe but I anxiously watched on praying for the safety of my beloved tent.  The elephants eventually moved on, sparing my tent, instead choosing to harass the bar area. As I stepped out of the toilet I caught out the corner of my eye movement coming my direction; a massive hippo was lumbering my way.  Back into the toilet.  Once the hippo passed I fled for the bar area where the night watchman was holed up.  He laughs as he sees me coming and asks, “You got scared?”  “Sure did” says I.  His reply, “Better to be alive.”  Eventually everything quieted (only after the elephants dented another camper's truck and put a tusk through their tent), and I made it back to my tent for a few more fitful hours of sleep before the morning baboon and monkey raid.  

These experiences were very near the edge of my comfort zone.  In fact, I am still trying to decide whether or not it was enjoyable.  Regardless, it was one heck of an experience that I will never forget.

Croc Valley Camp was a relaxing place right along the river with lots of shade.  Relaxing by day, scary by night.

The typical African safari rig.  Great for viewing, but once parked next to a pride of lions you begin to feel very vulnerable.

This young bull came through camp my last evening at Luangwa.  He was a trouble maker and very aggressive.  He took what he wanted and if anyone tried to stop him his ears would go out and he would mock charge. He ransacked a couple of camps, clearing tables and busting open cooler boxes.

The small Luangwa River certainly has no shortage of hippos. In fact, one of the highest (if not the highest) concentration in the world.  Hippos were also a nightly occurrence at the camp; less of a nuisance than the elephants though.

On the game drive we came across a pride of 5 lions that had killed a buffalo the day before.  Under the shade of a tree and with full bellies, the lions were not too entertaining.  I suppose it could have been more entertaining if they had empty stomachs...

Lots of giraffes as well.  South Luangwa is home to this species (who's name I can't recall) that is found only in South Luangwa.

The fading evening light on the Luangwa River.  As the sun sets, the anxiety of the looming nighttime chaos begins to rise...