Solace Down the Kunene

December 27 - Day 8

I have been craving milk all afternoon ever since I opened my pack to slather on some sunscreen.  I opened the container and found that the lotion had turned to the consistency of milk – that’s how hot it was today.  I am now camped at what I believe to be the northern most point in Namibia.  Although I am only about 15km from Epupa, this is the most remote I have felt.  I arrived here via a little Himba trail that winds its way far from the road.  My tent is pitched on a small patch of earth sandwiched between the river and a small mountain.  From my front door a sliver of rock juts out into the river creating a tranquil set of rapids.  Monster thunderheads are billowing over Angola and I can hear the distant rumble of thunder.  And not 50 yards from camp I spooked a 6 foot croc.  A proper last night after a long walk.

Tonight I am not entirely alone though.  Across the river, somewhere hidden behind the bushes is a Himba homestead.  I watched the boys play along the banks of the river, yelling and running.  I watched, as who I presume to be the father, bring the goats down to the river for a drink.  The Himba in Angola lead the same primitive lifestyle as their cousins here in Namibia.  However, I can imagine that their exposure to foreigners is not near that to the Namibian Himba.  I wonder what they are thinking of me camped across from them?  I watched as a woman emerged from the bushes carrying a container for hauling water.  Upon seeing me she stopped and gave me a long, intent watch as I went about my business, as if assessing the situation.  She eventually made her way down to the water directly across from the rocky protrusion at my camp.  She watched me as I watched her.  I went out to the river to fill up my water containers as she was doing the same thing.  I decided to splash some water on myself as a quick bathe.  When she finished collecting her water she does the same thing.*  Here I was sharing the same river, taking care of the same tasks with a woman whose culture is worlds away from my own – in fact, a culture that I envy in many respects.  It was a surreal experience.  The magic of this place is like nothing I have ever experienced before.

*I have since learned that Himba women do not bathe so maybe she was just merely cooling down. 

Another Himba homestead – unfortunately I don’t know what purpose each structure serves

The progressive aridity of the land was apparent as I continued west

Looking north across the Kunene and into Angola

After trekking in the Himalaya I thought I was ruined – would I ever be able to find places as beautiful?  The Kunene proved that I am not ruined – even though there are no big snowy mountains, the Kunene is a stunningly beautiful place in its own unique ways.

Yet another stunning sunset – Africa is good for those