Solace Down the Kunene

December 22 - Day 3 

The weather favored me today – a welcomed change.  I woke to the gentle chatter of villagers passing by under overcast skies, but no rain.  As the day progressed, the clouds broke bringing with it the scorching sun I was expecting to battle.  It felt great to finally dry out.  As I continue west the environment is becoming more arid.  Today I walked through near lunar landscapes, save a few scrawny mopane trees.  The more typical desert flora is becoming more common; acacia, camelthorn, and aloes.  However, the fringes of the river remain dense with monster gnarled trees and makalani palms. I like the contrast. 

I had few interactions with the Himba today.  I have begun wondering what they think of me.  At one point today, I made my way down to the river via a cattle trail to take a break on the bank.  A couple of Himba boys later made their way down there but after seeing me they clearly became nervous.  They slowly moved away while peeking at me through the trees.  I waved as a friendly invite to come over but they only returned a blank stare and quickly scurried away.  I felt as if I was intruding.  This area does see a fair amount of tourist traffic, but more of the 4x4 zoom though type, not the solo hiker type.  It is a shame because there is so much more that can only be experienced on foot.  Today I spooked 3 crocs, a giant monitor lizard, klipsinger, and marveled at countless bird species.  Not to mention, poked around some giant den of some sorts.  These experiences are certainly less genuine with your hands grasping the steering wheel.

I finished the day at the Kunene River Lodge, a swanky retreat about 46km in.  The camping is expensive but the food is good and the beer is cold (merry early Christmas!)  The location is no doubt stunning but I feel a bit detached from nature right now.  I will take a rest day tomorrow and walk to the nearby village of Swartbooisdrif to replenish some supplies.  The next leg of the walk is the long one but will most certainly be the most interesting.

Gravel plains devoid of life – a reminder that as I continue west I am pushing further into Kaokoland, an area known for its remote, harsh, and arid desert wilderness

There were plenty of sandy beaches that would be perfect for lazing after a swim…if it weren’t for the crocs and skin-searing sun

 

Sunset at the Kunene River Lodge