December 23 - Day 4
I am writing this a day late for reasons that will be apparent later. I took a rest day at the Kunene River Lodge which, despite its high prices and gangs of tough truck South Africans, was an extremely relaxing place to take a pause. I walked the 4km to the nearby village to stock up on supplies and indulge on imported Angolan biscuits (cookies). Swiftbooisdrif felt like an outlaw town from an old western. Everyone’s heads turned as I strolled into the bar to buy my cookies and a cold beer. A young lad approached me and after exchanging greetings in Himba, he gave me a reassuring comment. He looked me in the eyes and said something along the lines of, “you’ve been around awhile.” It made me feel at home to at least give the impression that I can walk the walk and talk the talk. It’s comforting to know that I am not like every other tourist.
After returning to camp my plans for the rest of the day were ruined. I was treated to endless foreign hospitality for the rest of the afternoon and evening. I still can’t figure out if people felt pity, admiration, or just plain bewilderment towards me. I was the only one in camp without a truck and we were all coming from or going to the same place. People would walk by my tent and say, “where’s yer truck?” I would just slap my legs and say “right here.” After being treated at the bar by South Africans, cold beers with some Germans, and hot dogs and wine with a French couple, I was able to finally call it a day well after my bedtime.
After returning to camp my plans for the rest of the day were ruined. I was treated to endless foreign hospitality for the rest of the afternoon and evening. I still can’t figure out if people felt pity, admiration, or just plain bewilderment towards me. I was the only one in camp without a truck and we were all coming from or going to the same place. People would walk by my tent and say, “where’s yer truck?” I would just slap my legs and say “right here.” After being treated at the bar by South Africans, cold beers with some Germans, and hot dogs and wine with a French couple, I was able to finally call it a day well after my bedtime.
The relaxing river deck at the lodge
The lush, shady, and peaceful retreat of the KRL – worlds away from the previous 3 days of walking…and the days to follow for that matter
KRL’s Unimog – an appropriate vehicle for these parts
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