Solace Down the Kunene

December 19 - Ruacana 

Here I am, sitting on the banks of the river, looking down the Kunene River valley; Namibia to my left, Angola to my right. It is the eve of what’s going to be a long walk. It has been a long time since I have written in my journal but this feels like a fitting time and place to pick it back up. I am writing now to record this trip; one that I know will be remarkable. I am here to tackle 150km along the Kunene, Ruacana Falls to Epupa Falls, solo. It is going to be a test in so many ways, physically and mentally. Just like other extraordinary adventures in the past – floating on a yam barge up the Volta or trekking around the base of Mt. Everest – this one is also going to be defining. I have chosen to do this one solo because for me it is the solo trips that turn out to be more profound and life changing. Of course I am nervous, but that is part of the appeal.

After a 3-hour, nerve-racking ride in a dilapidated taxi to get here, I was assured that I was doing the right thing when I was greeted by three young Himba boys at the entrance to the campground. And when my firewood was delivered to me on the head of a half-naked Himba woman while I was intently keeping my eye on the 8-9 foot croc lazing on the beach across from camp, I knew I was in for something special. No longer am I scared or nervous about what the coming days will bring, but am now eagerly awaiting the predawn start and the following nine days of what is surely to be a profound experience.

The Kunene’s spectacular entrance into Namibia

Ominous weather down the valley, in fact, ominous weather all around