Solace Down the Kunene

December 25 - Day 6

I woke this morning to crystal clear skies and an eagerness to see what was in store for the day.  These final four days should be the best as the road begins to deteriorate and I push deeper into Himba country.  Indeed, the day turned out to be incredible.  The only people I encountered were Himba – no 4x4 South Africans, no lodges, and no villages with assorted Namibians.  Every time I see a Himba I am fascinated, taken aback, and curious about them and their way of life.

As the day progressed my pack got lighter.  The first Himba I met today was a young woman. She was tending the cattle and upon seeing me she left her shade under the tree and swiftly made her way towards me.  She had her hand out in greeting before she even reached me.  We shook hands and exchanged greetings in broken English and broken Himba.  After a brief moment of trying to genuinely chat I couldn’t resist asking her for a photo.  She obliged.  I had to return the favor so I gave her an apple, a pen, and some loose change in my pack that was needlessly weighing me down – a fair exchange.

The rest of my encounters happened pretty much the same way.  An encounter was always a good excuse to stop, take a break, and share my goodies with them.  I can’t be certain, but I think many of them had their first experience with peanuts and raisins.  They seemed thoroughly delighted.  The warmth that they showed towards me was overwhelming (before they knew I had anything to offer, I might add).  Not once did I feel like I was intruding or was not welcomed – something that goes a long ways when you are alone in unfamiliar territory.  I also astonished myself at the level at which I could communicate with them.  I often got the gist of what they were saying to me and could offer a reply either in English or Himba.  There is apparently enough overlap between Oshiwambo and Himba that allows me to somewhat effectively communicate with them; a thrilling discovery that has of course enriched the experience. 

Tomorrow I am hoping for more of the same. I may have to start rationing my food…

One of the numerous homesteads the route took me past

It doesn’t matter how many Himba I see in a day – always breathtaking

 Curious, yet shy Himba boys who graciously accepted a snack of peanuts and raisins

This woman was doing the hair of the other – at this stage she was plastering it with what appeared to be white mud

The tranquility that a river provides is unmatched – whenever I had to navigate away from the river I would become uneasy