Upon returning to Namibia from Malawi, we swiftly made our way to the central part of the country to begin an 8-day backpacking trip. This walk, supposedly rated as one of Africa’s toughest, is a 120km loop in the Namib-Naukluft National Park. This park, one of the largest in Africa, is home to one of the oldest deserts in the world and the largest sand dunes on earth. The Naukluft section of the park is made up of rugged mountains and deep canyons that lie adjacent to the massive sea of sand. Above the mountains and canyons lies a massive plateau consisting of open grassland and rolling hills. It is a special area that for the most part, is un-penetrated by roads and aside from a few simple shelters, trail markers, and windmills, feels pristine. Our group of 6 came here to tackle the 8-day loop but unfortunately due to the unprecedented rainy season, the last two days of the trail were closed. However, due to the same reason, we got the opportunity to see the desert alive, in bloom, and pumping with water. So once again here is another series of photos from another very striking place.
In addition to the stunning scenery, the Naukluft Mountains have abundant wildlife. Spooking zebra here was about as common as spooking a whitetail doe in Montana. Pictured here are several oryx, or gemsbok, that we happened upon. Even though it may not be apparent in the picture, oryx are in my opinion one of Namibia’s most beautiful animals. The combination of long, straight horns, beige, black and white coat, and large horse-like tail makes for a very majestic critter.
Over the course of the 6 days our hike varied from walking in sandy river beds, scrambling up steep scree fields, crossing grassy meadows, wading up streams, to negotiating near vertical walls with the assistance of chains. The diversity of terrain was certainly a joy.
Always a welcomed sight in the desert. We passed a number of windmills during the hike but it seemed that none of them were still operable. Water wasn’t an issue so luckily we did not have to depend on them.
The hike took us through a couple of steep and narrow canyons which were absolutely delightful. The water flowing through the arid landscape was splendid and refreshing. Waterfalls were plentiful and falls like this one fell into deep, clear pools that were perfect for taking a plunge into.
The diverse landscapes that we encountered each had their own special appeal. One day we would be hiking on top of the plateau with views extending into the red sands of the Namib and beyond. The next day, we would be meandering through a claustrophobic canyon that would make one feel very small.
Kudu are probably the most common big game across Namibia but this was the first time I had seen them in a truly wild place. About the size of an elk, with big spiraling horns, Kudu certainly have a presence. In the past I failed to recognize their beauty and power, but seeing them in such a place was magnificent.
Hiking in the Naukluft Mountains often didn’t feel as exotic as one would think considering that the range is on the African continent. For the most part, I could easily imagine that I was somewhere in Southern Utah or in the more arid parts of Montana. However, there were reminders that I was indeed walking on an exotic continent; quiver trees in bloom, colorful birds, exotic game, leopard tracks, and deadly snakes brought everything into perspective.
There were so many times that I wanted to stop walking and watch the clouds play on the land, listen to the wind in the grass, and sit and ponder what lies beyond the mountains. However, with around 15km to cover each day, loafing around wasn’t always an option.
This peculiar waterfall was like nothing I had ever seen before. It came out of a cave perched on a rocky outcrop and plunged midair into the center of a deep pool with its own watery cave. The hike was packed with unexpected gems like this.
Open country, wildflowers, rugged peaks… perfect.
Yet another magical place tucked into the mountains. I once read a book about a search for Shangri-La in Tibet and it is a Buddhist belief that waterfalls are a place where one can gain instant enlightenment. I think there might be some truth in that.
It is amazing how everything just comes together sometimes. The combination of clouds, blue sky, and a setting sun on the orange peaks created quite the show.
It has been nearly a month since we left Naukluft but conditions have apparently changed there quite drastically. Scanning through the newspaper the other day an article caught my eye that mentioned Namib-Naukluft; these mountains made national news because they received several centimeters of snow! Unfortunately though, a few goats died.
1 comments:
sounds like an awesome trip and it looks beautiful!
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