Malawi - The Warm Heart of Africa

Over this last school holiday I decided it was time to venture beyond the borders of the country I now call home. While traveling overland through Zambia and onto Malawi I couldn’t help but think how remarkable this planet is. Prior to arriving in Namibia, Malawi was a country that barely registered in my mind as even existing. I knew next to nothing of this small country tucked in between Mozambique, Tanzania, and Zambia. Upon arriving in the country I was thrilled to find a vibrant culture, chaotic streets (in a good way, of course), stunning scenery, and a sense that I had just stumbled upon a very special place. Despite being one of the poorest countries in the world, Malawi has a lot to offer and is a place I will never forget. With that said, here is a handful of the highlights from several days in a very striking place.

One of the main attractions in Malawi is undoubtedly the lake. Lake Malawi is a beautiful body of water that covers nearly one fifth of the country. Lake Malawi is remarkable in that it has more fish species than any other inland body of water in the world. With over 500 species of fish, it is no wonder that fishing is a popular activity.

Lake Malawi is huge and while lazing around on the beach it is quite easy to imagine yourself sitting next to the ocean. The waters abound with activity from fishing boats battling the evening waves to reach their night fishing grounds to the peaceful locals commuting in their dugout canoes.

Another joy of Malawi was the people. Malawians have a reputation for being some of the friendliest people in Africa and for the most part, they live up to this. The children were always eager to throw out a huge thumbs-up and people never hesitated to say hello or point out the right direction when lost.

The open market scene in Malawi was outstanding. Over the last few years I have come to appreciate and love the economic simplicity and genuine human interaction of open markets. Over the course of my travels, wandering markets has become a favorite pastime and Malawi had a lot to offer in this regard.

What always amazes me in markets is how beautifully vendors unintentionally arrange their goods. Who would have thought that beans, sorghum, onions, chilies, and curry powder could make such a lovely arrangement?

Window shopping at its finest. The variety and availability of street food in Malawi was astounding. Needless to say, I never went hungry.

At the far southern tip of Malawi lies Mt. Mulanje, a large plateau rising nearly vertically from the plains below. The peaks are often shrouded in clouds therefore explaining its local name, “Island in the Sky.” The massif makes a stunning backdrop against the typical African roadside village.

No trip is complete for me without strapping the boots on, loading the backpack with supplies, and wandering around in the mountains for a few days. Mt Mulanje is the perfect place for this with plenty of trails and forestry cabins to sleep in. The first day of hiking comfortably meandered through beautiful tea plantations before uncomfortably climbing over 3,500 feet to the top of the plateau.

Once on the plateau the views were breathtaking. The plateau is vast with open grassland dissected by deep, forested valleys. Walking through the open country while soaking in the views of solid granite peaks made me feel worlds away from Africa; a reminder that no matter where I am in the world, being amongst high places will always be home.

However, the flora of Mulanje was a reminder that I was indeed not at home. The exotic and unusual variety of plant life was a highlight of hiking here. It seemed as if every plant was in bloom and each was trying to outdo the one next to it.

Moist air from the East would collide with the eastern side of the massif daily, causing everything and everyone to be shrouded in clouds. The clouds were welcomed though; temperatures would drop and the area would gain a peculiar mystic feel, making the wood stove in the cabin even more inviting than it already was.

Sapitwa Peak at 9,843 feet has the distinction of being the highest peak in Southern Africa north of the Drakensberg in South Africa. Not the most extraordinary distinction in the world but Sapitwa does deserve respect due to its steep terrain, tricky route finding, unpredictable weather, and evil spirits. In the local language Sapitwa means “don’t go there.”

And yes, alpenglow does occur in Africa.